Beetling
Beetling is a textile finishing process, where linen or cotton fabric is pounded to produce a flat, lustrous effect.
Process
[edit]Beetling is a textile finishing method used to obtain an aesthetic finish (i.e. lustre) in cotton- or linen-based fabrics. The fabric is wetted and treated with potato starch, and then hammers repeatedly rise and fall on exposed fabric for over 100 hours.[1] The finish imparts a lustrous and absorbent effect which is ideal for linen dishcloths.[2] It also changes the texture of the fabric, stiffening it somewhat so that it is similar to leather.[3]
History
[edit]Within Ireland, beetling was first introduced by Hamilton Maxwell in 1725.[4] Beetling is part of the finishing of the linen cloth. The hammering tightens the weave and gives the cloth a smooth feel. The process was gradually phased out, in lieu of calendering.[when?] One similarity between beetling and calendering is the compression; however, with calendering, the finish does not remain for the life of the cloth, which distinguishes it from beetling.
Beetling mill
[edit]William Clark and Sons, based in Upperlands, Northern Ireland, are the last commercial beetling mill in the world and have been beetling on the same site since 1736.[5]
21st century
[edit]In the 2020s, there was a surge of interest in beetled fabric, largely due to a 2020 Alexander McQueen collection focused on beetled linen.[6][3][7]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ Yotka, Steff (2020-04-09). "At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton Celebrates the Importance of a Little-Known Craft". Vogue. Archived from the original on 2024-09-09. Retrieved 2024-12-30.
- ^ Joseph, Marjory L. (1992). Joseph's introductory textile science. Internet Archive. Fort Worth : Harcourt Brace Jovanovich College Publishers. p. 340. ISBN 978-0-03-050723-6.
- ^ a b "Beetled linen, a one-off leather jacket and Angela Scanlon's new silver jewellery take centre stage at Brown Thomas CREATE showcase". Irish Independent. 2022-07-02. Retrieved 2024-12-30.
- ^ Robert Whan, The Presbyterians of Ulster, 1680-1730, (Woodbridge, The Boydell Press, 2013), 80.
- ^ "William Clark finishes for cotton and linen material". William Clark. Archived from the original on 2023-04-24. Retrieved 2021-07-28.
- ^ "Alexander McQueen Utilizes Beetled Linen in an Elevated Spring 2020 Collection". V Magazine. 2020-03-31. Retrieved 2024-12-30.
- ^ "Beetling back to relevance in 2021". www.innovationintextiles.com. Retrieved 2024-12-30.
External links
[edit]
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