Agbada

Yoruba man in Agbada

Agbada is the flowing robe traditionally worn by the Yoruba people across West Africa. It comes with an inner cloth of varying lengths and it also comes with a pair of bottom wear in form of native trousers called Shokoto. It also is worn most times with different caps like fila or abeti aja. Traditional Yoruba beads are often worn with it. The agbada is a male attire worn for special events and everyday life, depending on the extravagance of the garment. It is a distinct robe that comes in different styles and designs.

A Yoruba man acting in a traditional drama, wearing an Agbada

Yoruba man in a type of Agbada

Many Agbada are made with aso oke or aso ofi fabric, but they can be made in other different fabrics including adire. Agbada is somewhat similar to the boubou/ babanriga, but is different in looks, style, shape, fabrics and materials used and are quite distinguishable. Agbada usually features native Yoruba embroidery as many times alongside the Grand knot native to the Yoruba culture. Agbada is one of the attires of Yoruba men, alongside others like Gbariye, Sulia, Oyala, Kembe. Gbariye is close in looks to Agbada and many times considered a type of Agbada.

History

Agbada is a four-piece male attire found among the Yoruba of southwestern Nigeria, Togo and the Republic of Benin, West Africa.

It consists of a large, free-flowing outer robe (awosoke), an undervest (awotele), a pair of long trousers (sokoto), and a hat (fìla).

The outer robe—from which the entire outfit derives the name  Agbada, meaning "voluminous attire"—is a big, loose-fitting, ankle-length garment in which the centerpiece is usually covered front and back with an elaborated embroidery.

By 1772, the Agbada was recorded as a Yoruba-made cloth, showcasing the craftsmanship of the Yoruba weavers, particularly in the production of Aso-Oke, a hand-woven fabric used in its creation.

During the height of the Oyo Empire circa 1772, which held sway over much of present-day southwestern Nigeria and beyond, the Agbada became more than a local garment. It was often gifted to neighboring rulers and elites, including the people of Dahomey (modern-day Benin), who were under the influence of the Oyo Empire at the time. This cultural exchange helped solidify the dominance of Yoruba fashion, art, and politics across the region.

The presentation of the Agbada to the Dahomey people under the Oyo Empire symbolized more than just fashion—it was a diplomatic gesture, emphasizing the power and reach of the Oyo Empire, as well as the integration of Yoruba cultural elements into the broader political landscape of West Africa.

Contrary to popular belief, the Agbada was not introduced or imported from the Sahel region. Historical records from as early as 1826 documented that Yoruba-made Agbada was regarded as superior in quality and design compared to Sahelian garments. This distinction is important, as the Agbada, while sharing some broad similarities with the boubou in terms of flowing design, should not be confused with it. The Agbada represents a unique and intricate part of Yoruba heritage, standing apart in its sophistication, symbolism, and craftsmanship, demonstrating the advanced textile artistry of the Yoruba well before external influences reached the region.

Yoruba man in Gbariye