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Mehndi

Mehndi or "Mehendi" is a form of body art from Ancient India, in which decorative designs are created on a person's body, using a paste, created from the powdered dry leaves of the henna plant(Lawsonia inermis). Ancient in origin, mehndi is still a popular form of body art among the women of the Indian Subcontinent. Mehndi has also been popularized in the West by Indian cinema and the entertainment industry. Mehndi decorations became fashionable in the West in the late 1990s, where they are called henna tattoos. However this term is inaccurate as tattoos are defined as permanent, where as henna tattoos fade after two weeks. The people in Nepal, Bangladesh and the Maldives also use mehndi.

For other uses, see User:SEWANIM/sandbox (disambiguation).

Etymology

The word mehndi is derived from the Sanskrit word मेन्धिका, pronounced mendhikā. In English, mehndi is called henna which comes from the Arabic word حِنَّاء‎, pronounced hinna. The Arabic word "hinna" was first used in the year 1600. It was later adopted into the English form of the word (henna), which was first used in the year 1919.

History

While there is some controversy over the origins of the use of mehndi leaf powder as a dying agent, the earliest clear evidence of mehndi powder application on the body appears in Egyptian mummies whose hair and nails were stained with the reddish brown tones of mehndi. This is why some botanists believe the mehndi plant, Lawsonia inermis, originated in Egypt and was carried regularly to India. Once it was brought to India, it has been used since at least 700 AD for decorating hands and feet. Others believe that the Moguls brought mehndi and the concept of decorating one's body with it to India in the twelfth century CE. One theory suggests that mehndi comes from ancient Africe, while yet another theory is that the concept of decorating the body with mehndi originated from India itself. The use of mehndi and turmeric is described in the earliest Hindu Vedic ritual books. It was originally used for only women's palms and sometimes for men, but as time has progressed, it has become more common for men to wear it as well. Haldi (staining oneself with turmeric paste) as well as mehndi are Vedic customs, intended to be a symbolic representation of the outer and the inner sun. Vedic customs are centered on the idea of "awakening the inner light". Traditional Indian designs are representations of the sun on the palm, which, in this context, is intended to represent the hands and feet.

Another common speculation is that mehndi was first used as a method of cooling down the body, by applying it in a circular shape on the palms of the hands. Supposedly, over the years, users of mehndi began to add shapes an lines to the single dot. Today mehndi has evolved into a beautiful art form full of different patterns and intricate designs.

Historically, mehndi has been used for at least the past five thousand years to not only decorate the human body, but it has also been used for medicinal purposes, to dye cloth and leather, to color the manes of horses and the fur of other animals. For example, mehndi has been used in the past to protect animals. It was and still is often applied to the foreheads of bulls, milk cows, and horses. Another one of mehndi's peculiar uses is as follows. The tombstones in some graveyards are washed with mehndi in order to please spirits.

Today, one of the most common uses of mehndi is still to celebrate weddings. This custom first seemed to have originated in the eastern Mediterranean, during the late Bronze Age. The earliest writings that mention mehndi being used in such a celebration originates from the Ugaritic version of the myth of Baal and Anath. In this myth, Anath was the goddess of fertility and she adorned her hands with decorative mehndi in celebration of victory over her husband, Baal's, enemies which led to his return every year. This story encouraged young women in that time period to decorate their hands and feet with mehndi in preparation to meet their husbands at the vernal equinox, during which a spring fertility or sacrifice festival would occur. Women with mehndi on their hands was also discovered in wall paintings in Akrotiri. Statuettes of women from the late Bronze Age also confirm the connection between desire for fertility and the application of mehndi. Seemingly, this is the origin for the holiday, The Night of Mehndi, which is celebrated during weddings.

Preparation

Mehndi in powder form

Mehndi paste can be applied on the skin using a plastic cone, a paint brush or a stick and it is usually sold in stores in the form of a cone. To create this paste, mehndi leaves are dried, crushed, ground, and eventually sifted to form a fine powdery mixture. This powder is mixed with water and when in paste form is applied. Different powders or chemicals can be added to enhance the red color of mehndi, including the following examples. By mixing mehndi powder with coffee or different types of teas, the color of the stain will darken. Acidic juices like lemon juice or strong tea also achieve a darker stain. Essential oils also help in prolonging the lifetime of the stain. Some essential oils that work very well are eucalyptus, cajeput, or lavender. This is because they contain high levels of monoterpene alcohols. Before application, the mehndi paste has to sit for six to twelve hours, so that the tree cellulose has completely dissolved and the lawsone molecules can be exposed to the skin and leave a stain. If the intent is to apply mehndi in hair, it is best to keep the mehndi in a bowl or small container instead of using a cone.

Application

Through a cone, mehndi can be applied to the hands and feet in different patterns and designs. Once it has been put on, it only takes a few minutes to leave a stain. The lawsone molecules immediately begin moving from the mehndi to the epidermis or the outer layer of skin. If skin has more keratin and is thicker it will be able to absorb more lawsone. The longer the paste stays in contact with the skin, the more lawsone molecules will be able to migrate from the paste into the epidermis. However, in most cases, after eight hours, the most lawsone possible has already migrated to the skin.

After about thirty minutes, the mud will dry and begin to crack, and during this time, a mixture of lemon juice and white sugar can be applied over the henna design to remoisten the henna mud so that the henna will stain darker. This mixture creates a layer between the hardening mehndi and any external factors to prevent any further cracking and lock in the lawsone molecules, forcing them to migrate into the skin. The painted area can then be wrapped with tissue, plastic, or medical tape to lock in body heat, creating a more intense color on the skin. The wrap, is worn for two to six hours, or sometimes overnight, and then removed. This is not a traditional method, but is effective in achieving a dark stain. At this point, the mehndi design can also be steamed or warmed using several different methods to achieve a darker stain. This can also be done after the mehndi is removed, as the lawsone has not fully oxidized yet. When first removed, the mehndi design is pale to dark orange in colour and gradually darkens through oxidation, over the course of one to three days. The final color is reddish brown. It can last anywhere from one to three weeks depending on the quality and type of henna paste applied, as well as where it was applied on the body. The skin on the palms of the hand and the soles of the feet stain longer and darker, because they are much thicker than skin elsewhere. This key characteristic allows this skin to absorb more lawsone molecules from the mehndi. Moisturizing with natural oils, such as olive, sesame seed, or coconut, will also help extend the lifetime of the stain. On the other hand exposure to chlorinated water, and different types of soaps can cause the mehndi stain to fade prematurely or spoil the darkening process. Eventually, the mehndi design will seem to fade, because of natural skin exfoliation. The skin will begin to shed the stained cells and cells that are not stained by the mehndi will begin to surface.

Mehndi-dyed hair

Mehndi can also be applied in hair to dye the hair a reddish brown or auburn color. It also has various hair health benefits including minimizing hair loss and promoting hair growth. Use of mehndi in hair gives the hair a healthy shine, gives the hair a smooth, silky texture, and adds volume. It also strengthens hair roots by boosting blood circulation in the scalp and getting rid of excessive body heat. Another benefit is that applying mehndi in hair can eliminate dandruff in the scalp and help with keratosis pilaris. When applying, it is easier to start in the center of the head (around where a high bun would be tied). A small five centimeter strip of hair is taken and held with one hand. With the other hand, mehndi is applied to this strip of hair by scooping the paste from a bowl, applying it near the roots of the follicles, and working the mehndi up to the tip of the hair. Once the strip is coated, begin forming a bun. This process is repeated with the remaining hair and the bun eventually grows with layers of mehndi-coated hair. When finished a cloth or piece of ceran wrap can be wrapped around the head to prevent mehndi from getting anywhere. After four to six hours hair is rinsed with warm water and when the henna has been removed, it can be washed using a shampoo and a conditioner.

Traditions

The application of mehndi is used to celebrate various holidays and ceremonies around the world.

Mehndi in Indian tradition is typically applied during special Hindu weddings and Hindu festivals like Karva Chauth, Vat Purnima, Diwali, Bhai Dooj and Teej. In Hindu festivals, many women have Henna applied to their hands and feet and sometimes on the back of their shoulders too, as men have it applied on their arms, legs, back, and chest. For women, it is usually drawn on the palm, back of the hand and on feet, where the design will be clearest due to contrast with the lighter skin on these surfaces, which naturally contain less of the pigment melanin.

Muslims also apply Mehndi during festivals such as Eid-ul-Fitr and Eid-ul-Adha. In Pakistan, mehndi is such an essential part of these holidays that Eid does not seem complete without it.

In countries in the Middle East, such as Morocco, mehndi is applie to celebrate any and every holiday. This ranges from religious holidays such as Purim, Eid, Diwali, Karva Chauth, Passover, Nawruwz, Mawlid, and most saints’ days as well as battle victories, births, circumcision, birthdays, and of course, weddings.

Weddings

Traditional Hindu or Sikh weddings in India can often be long, ritualistic, and elaborate affairs with many pre-wedding, wedding and post wedding ceremonies. Different countries and regions of a country celebrate the ceremonies in different ways according to their own marriage customs, rituals, and culture. However many Eastern cultures have one thing in common; they all celebrate the night of henna or the night of mehndi.

Mehndi At Rajsthan Wedding

The night of mehndi used to be celebrated by people of all religions including Hindus, Muslims, Jews, Christians, and Zoroastrians. Putting complex patterns on the bride's hands and feet was a sign of blessings or "Barakah." As opposed to other people present at the Night of Mehndi, brides generally have the most complex and intricate patterns to show their happiness on their wedding day. For example, in Yemen, the Jewish mehndi application could take up to five days for the bride. One common saying is that the darker the bride's mehndi turns out to be, the more her mother in law loves her and the more prosperity the newly wed couple will have in their life together. Mehndi on brides of lower social economic status also served as a replacement for jewelry that the family could not afford.

According to Hindu tradition, the ceremony is mainly held at the bride's house or at a banquet hall on the eve of the marriage ceremony or few days before the marriage. Generally the bride and groom attend the event together and on the occasion a professional mehndi artist or a relative applies mehndi to the bride's hands and feet. The designs are very intricate. Often hidden within the mehndi pattern the name or initials of the groom are applied, as can be seen in the picture to the right. The event generally has a celebratory festival feel to it with the women dancing and singing traditional songs and the girls wearing vivid colors such as hot pink and yellow, often if the bride to be wishes to tease her future groom she will make him wear purple. The groom usually wears jutti instead of western footwear.

In Pakistan, the Mehndi is often one of the most important pre-wedding ceremonies, which is celebrated mainly by the bride's family. In Bangladesh, the Mehndi ceremony has traditionally been separated into two events; one organized by the bride's family and one, by the groom's family. Mehndi ceremonies take place outside India, Pakistan and Bangladesh amongst the South Asian community and places like Birmingham in the UK are such known hotspots for lavish Mehndi celebrations.

Styles

Arabic mehndi design

Mughlai style mehndi

Mehndi designs vary in style from country to country, making it possible to recognize distinct cultural traditions in terms of different patterns. The following parts of the world all use mehndi as a form of body art and decorations, but use very different designs and have different customs regarding mehndi.

• Indian mehndi is very detailed and intricate. Fine and thin lines are used to create floral, lacy, and paisley patterns created with of unique curves and curls. These patterns extend across entire arms, hands, shins, and feet and there is very little space in between the patterns. Indian mehndi is especially known for the different animal designs it contains which can symbolize various things. For example, elephants with their trunk faced upward are a sign of good luck and good fortune. Two other popular symbols in India are the peacock, which is the national bird of India, and lotus flower.

• In Pakistan, mehndi designs are a combination of the Indian and Arabic or Middle Eastern styles. There is a balance of geometric patterns and floral designs. There is focus both on the design and on the negative space on the hand.

• The exact opposite of Indian mehndi, Arabic or Middle Eastern mehndi comprises of elegant outlines rather than detailed designs. This art form emphasizes and really focuses on the negative space rather than the design itself. Some common designs are various flowers, vines, and leaves. These patterns usually extend from the index finger to the opposite bottom corner of the hand. Patterns can also be created in a circular shape extending from the center of the palm of the hand. In Arabic or Middle Eastern mehndi designs, it is common for the tips of the fingers to be completely filled in.

• Indo-Arabic Mehndi uses both the Indian and Arabic styles. A bold Arabic-style outline is filled in with a detailed Indian-style pattern. This very modern style is desired and sought after for Indian weddings.

• Moroccan mehndi uses thick straight lines and sharp edges to create geometric patterns including chevron patterns, striped patterns, and other tribal patterns. This is very different from the flowery patterns mentioned above. In Morocco, mehndi is also used to paint doors of new homes. This is to wish for prosperity, as well as to protect the inhabitants of the house. In other words, mehndi supposedly protects them from the "evil eye."
• African mehndi designs are similar to Moroccan mehndi designs, in that they both comprise of geometric patterns. One factor that helps distinguish African mehndi designs from Moroccan ones is that in Africa, black mehndi is used as opposed to the natural mehndi that is used in Pakistan, India, Morocco, and the Middle East. Also, African mehndi patterns use the boldest and thickest lines out of the different styles.
• Mughlai mehndi is the oldest and most traditional mehndi style. This style is very neat and detailed, because every single dot and curl is accentuated by the negative space around it. Each piece of the design fits together very well.

Types

Natural Mehndi

Natural mehndi also known as red mehndi or brown mehndi is supposed to be the purest form of real henna. This mehndi comes directly from the henna plant, lawsonia inermis, and does not have any additional substances mixed in. Most stores may supposedly sell this kind of mehndi, but in reality the mehndi probably has chemicals mixed in with it to speed up and darken the coloring process. When removed from the hand, it leaves behind a dark orange-red tinge, because of the red-orange dye molecule it contains which bonds with proteins in skin such as keratin. It can also be used to dye hair, but because this natural dye is also translucent, it does not dye darker shades of hair very well. On the other hand, blonde or other light varieties of hair will cause the hair to stain orange or red.

Neutral Mehndi

Neutral mehndi or blonde mehndi is not actually mehndi at all. It is actually an herb called cassia obovata. In powder form, it looks very similar to henna powder, but when applied it generally does not leave a stain behind. If it leaves a yellow stain on hands or hair, it means that there is rhubarb mixed in with the cassia obovata. To prepare for application, this pwder has to be mixed with warm water, until it becomes a paste-like consistency. It is usually applied in hair and is used as a great conditioner which leaves behind stronger and healthier hair. After application, the neutral mehndi is supposed to be left in the hair for four to eight hours for best results.

Allergies to neutral mehndi are very rare, but not unheard of, so it is important to conduct a patch test before applying it in hair.

Black Mehndi

Black mehndi is a form of henna used to achieve an intense black color. It can be used to die hair black as well as on skin, as a form of body art. There are two different types of black mehndi. The first is the color p-phenylenediamine or PPD mixed in with henna powder. PPD is a clear liquid chemical which leaves a black stain. In order to achieve the black stain, the PPD needs to be oxidized, the most reactive phase. This is the same stage that the black mehndi is undergoing when being applied. So although this method definitely achieves the wanted black color, it can be very dangerous and can cause severe allergies. The second type is a much safer, but a lot less effective alternative. It is indigo (Indigofera tinctoria) mixed with henna powder. This mixture, when combined with water, has a more bluish tint than PPD which has a browinish blackish tinge when combined with water. It also has the distinct scent of frozen peas.

Health Risks

Allergic reaction to black mehndi

The application of mehndi directly onto skin can cause severe allergic reactions for some people. Specifically, black mehndi (or any form of colored mehndi, for example blue mehndi or white mehndi) is especially dangerous, because it can contain the color p-phenylenediamine, also known as PPD or coal tar. PPD was voted Allergen of the Year in 2006 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society and hence, this chemical is only allowed to be used in hair dyes and only in relatively low concentrations. It was In black mehndi, PPD is used in high concentrations to get optimum results of the darkest shade of body art possible. If applied directly to the skin, this chemical can cause bumps, rashes, or red marks to form as a sign of irritation. In more severe cases swelling, allergic contact dermatitis, or hives may occur. This is why it is important to be aware of the ingredients in mehndi before applying it. Other allergic reactions to henna may be because of the essential oils used in the mix or to the lemon juice that is either mixed in or applied to the skin after the mehndi dries with the intention to darken its color.

Another possible health risk is because of lawsone, the molecule responsible for the stain that comes from mehndi. If a person has Glucose-6-phosphate-dehydrogenase Deficiency (G6PD Deficiency), the use of lawsone on skin or scalp may cause hemolysis. G6PD is an inherited deficiency in which blood cells break down as a reaction to certain substances, one of these being mehndi. Most people who suffer from these episodes are able to recover in a few days, however if mehndi is applied in large amounts on a small child with this condition, it could send the child into severe hemolytic crisis, resulting in fatality.

In addition, it is important to be informed of the fact that mehndi for application on skin is not approved by the United States Food and Drug Administration. In fact, the FDA has only approved mehndi as a hair dye. Therefore, the use of mehndi as a form of body art or decoration is considered illegal. However, even though the government has the right to prosecute mehndi at the border, it is very rare for prosecution to actually occur.

See also

• Henna
• Alta
• Body painting
• Temporary tattoo