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Sulaymaniyah

Coordinates: 35°33′26″N 45°26′08″E / 35.55722°N 45.43556°E / 35.55722; 45.43556
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Sulaymaniyah
سلێمانی
Silêmanî
City
Top-bottom, R-L:
View over Suleymaniyah
Roman amphitheater • Sharafkhan Bidlisi statue
Amna Suraka Museum • Sulaymaniyah Museum
Suleymaniyah at night
Sulaymaniyah is located in Iraq
Sulaymaniyah
Sulaymaniyah
Coordinates: 35°33′26″N 45°26′08″E / 35.55722°N 45.43556°E / 35.55722; 45.43556
Country Iraq
RegionKurdistan Region
GovernorateSulaymaniyah Governorate
Government
 • GovernorHaval Abubakir[1]
Elevation
882 m (2,895 ft)
Population
 • Estimate 
(2018)[2]
676,492
Time zoneUTC+3 (AST)
Websitehttps://slemani.gov.krd/

Sulaymaniyah or Slemani (Kurdish: سلێمانی, romanized: Silêmanî;[3][4] Arabic: السليمانية, romanized: as-Sulaymāniyyah[5]), is a city in the east of the Kurdistan Region of Iraq and is the capital of the Sulaymaniyah Governorate. It is surrounded by the Azmar (Ezmer), Goizha (Goyje) and Qaiwan (Qeywan) Mountains in the northeast, Baranan Mountain in the south and the Tasluja Hills in the west. The city has a semi-arid climate with very hot dry summers and cold wet winters.

The modern city of Slemani was founded in 1784[6] by the Ottoman-Kurdish prince Ibrahim Pasha Baban in Collaboration with Azim Beg and Haji Aziz Noori Aghall Dwanze Swarey Meriwane Jawamer Agha Rangena, who named it after his father Sulayman Pasha.[7] Slemani was the capital of the historic Kurdish principality of Baban from 1784 to 1850.

History

[edit]
Further information: Timeline of Sulaymaniyah
Stela of Iddi-Sin, King of Simurrum. It dates back to the Old Babylonian Period. From Qarachatan Village, Slemani Governorate, Iraqi Kurdistan. Located in the Slemani Museum, Iraq.

The region of Slemani was known as Zamwa prior to the foundation of the modern city in 1784. The capital of the Kurdish Baban principality (1649–1850), before Slemani, was a territory named "Qelaçiwalan". At the time of the Babani's rule there were major conflicts between the Safavid dynasty and the Ottoman Empire. Qelaçiwalan became a battleground for the two rivals.[8]

In 1783, Ibrahim Baban became ruler of the emirate and began the reconstruction of a city which once constructed by Ottoman Sultan Sulayman (the name of Sulaymaniyah came from his name) new city which would become its capital. In 1784 he finished erecting a number of palaces for trade called Qeyserîs and bazaars, which were also used as baths, and began inviting people from the surrounding villages and emirates to move to the newly established city. Soon Melkendî, which was originally intended to be the city itself, instead became one of its quarters.[8] The new city of Slemani was named after Sulayman Baba, who was the first Baban prince to gain control of the province of Şarezûr. Sulayman Baban invaded the neighboring Kurdish vassaldom of Ardalan, defeating their forces in 1694. Ottoman Sultan Mustafa II assigned him the district of Baban.[9]

Haji Aziz Noori Aghall Dwanze Swarey Meriwane Jawamer Agha Rangena, not to be confused with the nobleman Jwamer Agha, but they possess family ties through marriage. He was the Billionaire Bey of the noble and aristocratic Kurdish Noori Aghall family, who founded the city in collaboration with Ibrahim Pasha Baban and Azim Beg. Ibrahim Pasha Baban invited Haji to build Slemani. They founded the city of Sarkarez together. He was the first individual to establish a cemetery in Slemani, utilising his land, which had initially been designated for sumac cultivation. Aghall asserted that he had no intention of generating profit, citing his personal wealth as sufficient to assist the impoverished. He further demonstrated his altruistic nature by opening the doors of his palace, allowing the indigent to take whatever they required. He provided them with nuts, chicken, rice and food items that were typically consumed by the aristocracy during his era. Additionally, he constructed the inaugural bridge in Slemani, testing its stability by riding his horse across it. He expressed a sense of indifference to his own safety, stating that if he were to perish due to the bridge's collapse, it would serve as a testament to its inadequacy and raise awareness among the citizens. Following his demise, his family encountered criticism, which prompted them to sell the mansion and convert it into a car park. Many older Kurds who had known him expressed disapproval of this decision. Regardless of his death, he is a highly respected nobleman. Many peasants offered their religion for his actions, but he refused, saying that he does not need any recognition and that he is happy with everything he has. He was offered royal titles, but he refused. His wife, the noblewoman Fatima Khanum, sold all her gold to support her husband in saving hundreds of thousands of peasants with his wealth during the First World War. For their actions, they are buried in a sacred private grave on the sumac farm.[10]

According to Jewish tradition, Sulaiman baban emphasized the importance of a town having Jewish residents for its completeness. A mission was then sent to Qaradagh, a town with a thriving Jewish community, and surrounding villages. The Jews of Qaradagh responded by sending the first group of Jewish inhabitants to Sulaymaniyah.[11]

In the early 1800s refugees from Ardalan moved to Slemani, including Mastura Ardalan, the widow of Xosraw Xanî Erdalan, the ruler of the kingdom. Erdalan wrote an account of Kurdish history in Persian and was buried in Slemani when he died in 1848.[12]

From 1922 to 1924, Slemani was the capital of the Kingdom of Kurdistan, a short-lived unrecognized state declared by Iraqi Kurds following the collapse of the Ottoman Empire.[13]

Demographics

[edit]

In 1820, only 36 years after the creation of the city, a British man named Rech visited the city and estimated that its population was more than ten thousand, containing 2,144 families of which 2,000 were Muslim, 130 Jewish, and 14 Christian.[citation needed]

Ottoman documents from 1907 suggest that there were 8,702 Muslim and 360 non-Muslim residents living in the city at that time.[citation needed] The Peshkawtin newspaper which was distributed in Slemani in 1920 estimated its population to be around ten thousand.[citation needed]

The early 1920s Iraqi Revolt against the British rule of the Mandate for Mesopotamia led by Shaikh Mahmud triggered a wave of Jewish emigration from Sulaymaniyah.[11]

According to Iraqi government documents, by 1947 the number of residents had increased to 23,475.[14] In the same year, records documented the existence of three hundred Jewish families, comprising a total of 1,517 individuals. Notably, nearly the entire Jewish community, except one family, made aliyah to the emerging State of Israel in 1951–52.[11]

By 1998, the local population was estimated at 548,747, which grew in 2015 to an estimated 656,100.[14]

The American University of Iraq, Sulaimani estimated the number of inhabitants in 2016 at 800,000.[15]

Geography and climate

[edit]
Panorama of Sulaymaniyah, September 2015

The city is located in northern Iraq and Southern Kurdistan. Of the main population centres in the country, it is characterized by its cooler summer temperatures and its rainier winters. Average temperatures range from 0 to 39 °C (32–102 °F). In the winters, there can be a significant amount of snow. Snow falls every year or two.[16][17][18][19][20]

The Köppen-Geiger climate classification system classifies its climate as hot-summer Mediterranean climate (Csa).[21]

Climate data for Sulaymaniyah (2012–2023 normals)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 11.2
(52.2) 		13.6
(56.5) 		17.6
(63.7) 		23.6
(74.5) 		30.4
(86.7) 		37.6
(99.7) 		41.3
(106.3) 		39.2
(102.6) 		35.4
(95.7) 		28.6
(83.5) 		19.1
(66.4) 		13.3
(55.9) 		25.9
(78.6)
Daily mean °C (°F) 5.3
(41.5) 		7.1
(44.8) 		10.8
(51.4) 		15.6
(60.1) 		21.6
(70.9) 		27.8
(82.0) 		31.7
(89.1) 		30.2
(86.4) 		25.7
(78.3) 		19.8
(67.6) 		12.4
(54.3) 		7.6
(45.7) 		18.0
(64.3)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) −0.6
(30.9) 		0.6
(33.1) 		4.1
(39.4) 		7.6
(45.7) 		12.7
(54.9) 		18.1
(64.6) 		22.1
(71.8) 		21.3
(70.3) 		16.1
(61.0) 		11.0
(51.8) 		5.8
(42.4) 		1.8
(35.2) 		10.0
(50.1)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 107.2
(4.22) 		118.5
(4.67) 		129.4
(5.09) 		65.1
(2.56) 		22.5
(0.89) 		0.5
(0.02) 		0.0
(0.0) 		0.2
(0.01) 		1.5
(0.06) 		41.0
(1.61) 		109.3
(4.30) 		126.9
(5.00) 		722.0
(28.43)
Average precipitation days (≥ 1.0 mm) 11.6 9.6 14.1 11.1 11.1 5.9 0.9 0.1 1.0 0.5 5.3 9.0 80.2
Average snowy days 1.9 1.1 0.1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.9 4
Average relative humidity (%) 75.7 70.5 70.5 64.3 47.2 23.2 19.0 19.2 23.8 39.4 64.8 76.3 49.5
Average dew point °C (°F) −1
(30) 		0
(32) 		2
(36) 		4
(39) 		5
(41) 		3
(37) 		4
(39) 		4
(39) 		2
(36) 		2
(36) 		1
(34) 		2
(36) 		2
(36)
Mean monthly sunshine hours 164.3 175.2 213.9 237.0 316.2 408.0 418.5 396.8 351.0 272.8 207.0 167.4 3,328.1
Mean daily sunshine hours 5.3 6.2 6.9 7.9 10.2 13.6 13.5 12.8 11.7 8.8 6.9 5.4 9.1
Mean daily daylight hours 10.5 11.4 12.4 13.6 14.5 15.0 14.8 13.9 12.8 11.7 10.7 10.3 12.6
Source 1: IEM[22]KRSO (precipitation 2012–2021, precipitation days 2014–2021 and snow 2013–2021)[23]
Source 2: Weatherbase (daylight-dew point),[24] Weather2visit(sun)[25]

Education

[edit]

The University of Slemani was opened in 1968 with instruction in Kurdish, Arabic, and English. It has faculties in engineering, agriculture, the arts, science, and medicine. It is the largest university in the Kurdistan Region.[26] A second university, Sulaimani Polytechnic University[27] was established in 2012, also teaching in Kurdish, English and Arabic.

In 2007 The American University of Iraq – Sulaimani,[28] (AUI-S) was a new addition to the American universities in the Middle East, graduating its fifth class in 2016. Instruction at this private, not-for-profit liberal arts university is in English only, featuring a US-accredited program in English as a Second Language (ESL). There are a number of other private universities.

Culture

[edit]
Adnan Karim in a joint concert with the Iraqi National Symphony Orchestra conducted by the renowned Kurdish composer A.J. Sagerma performing classical Kurdish music

Two independent newspapers Hawlati[29] and Awena[30] and two independent political magazines Lvin and Shock, are published and distributed in Slemani city. Since 2016, there exists an International Film Festival in the city which is organized by the College of Fine Arts of the University of Sulaymanya.[6]

Slemani is the only city in South Kurdistan that regularly celebrates World Music Day or Fête de la Musique. In one trip to the city, a journalist working for the BBC wrote about Slemani's distinct culture:"Culture is hugely important to the Kurdish people, especially in Slemani, but there is a strong pull to the west—modernisation and consumerism—driven perhaps by the satellite televisions they have had access to since they started running their own affairs...And at the university, students mill around the campus, chattering with each other and doing some last-minute cramming for their exams. The war only stopped lectures for a few weeks. There are probably more women than men and they are happy to air their views to anyone who asks."[31]

Slemani was the home of poets such as Nalî, Mahwi, and Piramerd.[32][33]

Economy

[edit]
Roman amphitheater in Slemani, important tourist attraction in the city
Sarchnar Park

Since 2003, Slemani has experienced a growing local economy. Its economy today relies on tourism, agriculture[34][better source needed] and a number of small factories, most of which are involved in the building trade.

In 2004 the Comprehensive Food Security and Vulnerability Analysis in Iraq released an in-depth survey of the Slemani Governorate in which they surveyed each city. In this survey, one can see the economic boom of 2003 mentioned earlier.[35]

Tourism

[edit]
Hewari Shar Park
Victims of the Anfal campaign are represented by broken glass and tiny lights at the Amna Suraka museum in Slemani[36]
Kurdish artist Tara Jaff playing the Harp during a cultural gathering at Aram Gallery
Slemani at Night at the Top of Azmar Mountain

The city was visited by more than 60,000 tourists in 2009.[37] Slemani attracted more than 15,000 Iranian tourists in the first quarter of 2010, many drawn by the fact it is not subject to strict laws faced at home. Newroz 2010 drew an exodus of Iranian tourists choosing to celebrate the event in the region.[38]

Museums

[edit]
  • Sulaimani Museum: It is the second biggest museum after the national museum in Baghdad. It is home to many Mesopotamian, Kurdish and ancient Persian artifacts dating back to 1792–1750 BC.[39]
  • Amna Suraka museum[36]
  • Museum of Modern Art (Mozehanai Hunari Howchah)[6]
  • Sulaimani Archeological Museum[6]

Notable people

[edit]
Main page: Category:People from Sulaymaniyah
Mahmud Barzanji

Sites

[edit]

Politics

[edit]

In recent years, many people in Slemani have distanced themselves from Kurdish nationalism as the Kurdistan Workers Party is experiencing a surge.[41]

Twin towns – sister cities

[edit]

Transportation

[edit]

The city is served by Sulaimaniyah International Airport, with service on many commercial airlines, including Iraqi, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian and Turkish Airlines.

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^ "Sulaimani Polytechnic University". spu.edu.iq. 13 June 2015. Archived from the original on 25 December 2018. Retrieved 13 June 2015.
  2. ^ "Iraq: Governorates & Cities".
  3. ^ "Bi wêneyên Pêşengeha Pirtûkan a Navnetewî ya Silêmanî". Rûdaw. 23 November 2019. Retrieved 18 December 2019.
  4. ^ "سەرۆکی هەرێمی کوردستان سەردانی سلێمانی دەکات". Rûdaw (in Kurdish). 25 November 2019. Retrieved 18 December 2019.
  5. ^ "السليمانية". Al Jazeera (in Arabic). Retrieved 14 February 2021.
  6. ^ a b c d Cockrell-Abdullah, Autumn (2018). "There Is No Kurdish Art". The Journal of Intersectionality. 2 (2): 103–128. doi:10.13169/jinte.2.2.0103. ISSN 2515-2114. JSTOR 10.13169/jinte.2.2.0103.
  7. ^ Ali, Meer Ako (13 November 2011). "Sulaimany: 227 years of glory". The Kurdistan Tribune. Archived from the original on 9 October 2019.
  8. ^ a b "The Leading Suly Government Site on the Net". sulygov.com. Retrieved 9 August 2012.
  9. ^ Gábor Ágoston, Bruce Alan Masters (2009), Encyclopedia of the Ottoman Empire, p.70, Infobase Publishing, ISBN 9781438110257
  10. ^ The book of the remarkable Kurds from Sulaymaniyah
  11. ^ a b c Zaken, M. (1 January 2007), "Chapter Five. Sulaimaniya", Jewish Subjects and Their Tribal Chieftains in Kurdistan, Brill, pp. 107–112, doi:10.1163/ej.9789004161900.i-376.31, ISBN 978-90-474-2212-9, retrieved 10 October 2023
  12. ^ Goudsouzian, Tanya (21 November 2016). "Sulaimania: Saving the dream city of a Kurdish prince". aljazeera.com. Al-Jazeera. Retrieved 21 November 2016.
  13. ^ Prince, J. (1993), "A Kurdish State in Iraq" in Current History, January.
  14. ^ a b "Iraq: Governorates, Major Cities & Urban Centers – Population Statistics, Maps, Charts, Weather and Web Information". www.citypopulation.de.
  15. ^ "Life in Sulaimani". The American University of Iraq Sulaimani. 17 October 2016.
  16. ^ "Iraq under cold front bringing snow with below zero temperatures". Indian Muslims. Kuwait News Agency (KUNA). 11–12 January 2008. Archived from the original on 28 September 2013. Retrieved 3 March 2013. BAGHDAD, Jan 11 (KUNA) – snow fell on large areas of Iraq following two days of low temperatures.
  17. ^ "Snow covers Sulaimaniya". National Iraqi News Agency (NINA). 26 January 2010. Archived from the original on 26 February 2014. Retrieved 3 March 2013. Sulaimaniya (NINA) –The city of Sulaimaniya witnessed a heavy fall of snow that covered the entire city since Monday midnight. Reporter of the National Iraqi News Agency said 'The citizens of Sulaimaniya woke up on Tuesday morning to see their city covered with snow and the street painted in white color.'
  18. ^ "Heavy Snow Blankets Sulaimaniya". Iraq Updates. 3 March 2012. Retrieved 3 March 2013.
  19. ^ "Unusually heavy snow hits Iraq's Sulaimaniya". Al Arabiya. Reuters. 14 January 2013. Retrieved 3 March 2013. An unusually heavy snowstorm blanketed Sulaimaniya city, in northern Iraq's autonomous Kurdish region, on Saturday (January 12) as severe weather conditions continue to sweep through the region.
  20. ^ "11 Refugee Children Freeze to Death in Kurdistan Camps". Erbil. 12 January 2015. Archived from the original on 3 February 2015. Retrieved 3 February 2015.
  21. ^ "Climate: Sulaymaniyah – Climate graph, Temperature graph, Climate table". Climate-Data.org. Retrieved 4 January 2014.
  22. ^ "[ORSU] Sulaymaniyah [2010-] Monthly Summaries". The Iowa Environmental Mesonet. Retrieved 21 December 2024.
  23. ^ "Weather Statistics in Kurdistan Region Governorates for the years 2012-2021, Station : Sulaimany" (PDF). Kurdistan Region Government Ministry of Planning Kurdistan Region Statistics Office. Retrieved 21 December 2024.
  24. ^ "MONTHLY - ALL WEATHER AVERAGES: As-Sulaymaniyah". Weatherbase. Cantymedia. Retrieved 17 July 2024.
  25. ^ "As-Sulaymaniyah Weather Averages". Weather2visit. Retrieved 17 July 2024.
  26. ^ "University of Sulaimani". Univsul.org. Archived from the original on 20 January 2018. Retrieved 9 August 2012.
  27. ^ "Sulaimani Polytechnic University". spu.edu.iq. Retrieved 24 October 2014.
  28. ^ auis.org Archived 23 November 2010 at the Wayback Machine
  29. ^ "Hawlati.info". Hawlati.info. Retrieved 26 August 2014.
  30. ^ "ئاوێنە نیوز". Awene.com. Retrieved 26 August 2014.
  31. ^ "Kurdistan diary: Day Three". KurdishGlobe. 28 October 2006. Archived from the original on 10 March 2012. Retrieved 9 August 2012.
  32. ^ Salih Rasha, Akram. Sulaymaniyah 200 Years. Sulaymaniyah, Kurdistan. pp. 503–504.
  33. ^ Is the Paris of Iraq (21 September 2016). "Sulaimani city, on verge of economic collapse?". Kurd Net – Ekurd.net Daily News.
  34. ^ "Slemani". Investpromo.gov.iq. Retrieved 9 August 2012.
  35. ^ "Comprehensive Food Security and Vulnerability Analysis in Iraq" (PDF). Archived from the original on 14 August 2011. Retrieved 12 April 2011.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown (link)
  36. ^ a b "The Museum of Amna Suraka: a Critical Case Study of Kurdistani Memory Culture". Leiden University. Retrieved 28 November 2021.
  37. ^ "Rudaw.NL, dé Opinieblog..." Rudaw.nl. Retrieved 9 August 2012.
  38. ^ "Rudaw.NL, dé Opinieblog..." Rudaw.nl. Retrieved 9 August 2012.
  39. ^ "Suleimaniya Museum: a small place for a great civilization". KurdishGlobe. 13 February 2008. Archived from the original on 8 March 2012. Retrieved 9 August 2012.
  40. ^ "Wusha Corporation". Wusha.net. Archived from the original on 14 June 2012. Retrieved 9 August 2012.
  41. ^ "Kurdish Nationalism at an Impasse". The Century Foundation. tcf.org. 29 April 2019. Retrieved 18 April 2020.
  42. ^ "Tucson Sister Cities". Interactive City Directory. Sister Cities International. Archived from the original on 4 October 2013. Retrieved 4 September 2013.
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