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English: Several integral properties of Stokes waves on deep water as a function of wave steepness. The wave steepness is defined as the ratio of wave height H to the wavelength λ. These properties of surface gravity waves are made dimensionless using the wavenumber k = 2π / λ, gravitational acceleration g and the fluid density ρ.

Shown are the kinetic energy density T, the potential energy density V, the total energy density E = T + V, the horizontal wave momentum density I, and the relative enhancement of the phase speed c. Wave energy densities T, V and E are integrated over depth and averaged over one wavelength, so they are energies per unit of horizontal area; the wave momentum density I is similar. The dashed black lines show 1/16 (kH)2 and 1/8 (kH)2, being the values of the integral properties as derived from (linear) Airy wave theory. The maximum wave height occurs for a wave steepness H / λ of 0.1412, above which no periodic surface gravity waves exist.

Note that the shown wave properties have a maximum for a wave height less than the maximum wave height (see e.g. E.D. Cokelet (1977) "Steep gravity waves in water of arbitrary uniform depth", Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London, A 286(1335), pp. 183–230, doi:10.1098/rsta.1977.0113).

This figure is a remake and adaptation of Figure 1 in: L.W. Schwartz and J.D. Fenton (1982) "Strongly nonlinear waves", Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics 14, pp 39–60, doi:10.1146/annurev.fl.14.010182.000351.
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Author Kraaiennest
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The wave physics are computed with the Rienecker & Fenton streamfunction theory; for a computer code to compute these see: J.D. Fenton (1988) "The numerical solution of steady water wave problems". Computers & Geosciences 14(3), pp. 357–368, doi:10.1016/0098-3004(88)90066-0.
 
This diagram was created with MATLAB by v.
 
This vector image was created with Inkscape by v .

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2 March 2012

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Date/TimeThumbnailDimensionsUserComment
current13:11, 4 March 2012Thumbnail for version as of 13:11, 4 March 2012963 × 529 (293 KB)KraaiennestLinear horizontal scale, in terms of ''kH'' instead of its square. Added several other wave properties
07:35, 2 March 2012Thumbnail for version as of 07:35, 2 March 2012401 × 347 (94 KB)Kraaiennest{{Information |Description={{en|1=Energy – the sum of kinetic and potential energy – of Stokes waves on deep water as a function of wave height. For these [[:en:surface gravity wav...

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