Sukajan
A sukajan (スカジャン), or a souvenir jacket, is a kind of blouson jacket dating from the end of the Second World War. It is inspired by baseball jackets, embroidery, silk, and Japanese influences.
History
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After the end of the Second World War, the remnants of the parachute capes were used by the american soldiers to conceive light jackets similar to Teddy, Varsity jackets and others inspired by the american universities[1]. Upon leaving, they were decorated with motifs coming from the military inspiration, and then diversified with a mélange of Japanese and American culture, approximationg the style to the tattoo technique[2].
A little after, the sukaman (portmanteau Yokosuka Mambo) fashion movement retook certain elements of civil style with militairy style of the military base of Yokosuka: the youths of this movement had one-button suits made by local tailors and sometimes went so far as to imitating American haircuts[3]. They particularly apreciated souvenir jackets and gave them the name sukajan (from "Yokosuka jumpers")[3]. This type of jacket ended up being marketed in the Yokosuka boutiques, for the passing sailors. The film Pigs and Battleships popularised the sukajan in the entire country [3] and these jackets became the Japanese equivalent of greaser fashion for the "bad boys"[4].
Afterwards, this type of jacket was transformed into a local classic: a souvenir object for tourists or a basic wardrobe element[4]. In the 2010s, it was reinterpreted by fashion and various European designers who seized it to integrate it into their ready-to-wear collections[4].
Sometimes close to the silk bombers, adorned with tiger, snake or dragon motifs, the jacket paradoxically keeps the (visual) softness of the silk against the virile image of those who wear them.[1].
References
- ^ a b Brunel 2016, p. 74.
- ^ Brunel 2016, p. 74 et 75.
- ^ a b c Marx 2015.
- ^ a b c Brunel 2016, p. 75.
Sources
- Jacques Brunel (13 March 2016). "Blousons dorés". L'Express Style (in French). suplement to the number 3375 of L'Express: 74-75. JB2016.
{{cite journal}}: CS1 maint: date and year (link) - W. David Marx (2015). Ametora. Basic Books. p. 296. ISBN 9780465073870. WDM2015.
See also
[[Category:Embroidery]] [[Category:Silk]] [[Category:Tops (clothing)]] [[Category:Japanese clothing]] [[Category:Pages with unreviewed translations]]