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{{Short description|Traditional Chinese forehead decoration`}}{{Infobox clothing type|location=[[Spring and Autumn Period]] and [[Warring States Period]], [[China]]|image_file=[[File:Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave (forehead decoration).jpg|Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave (forehead decoration)]]|caption=Buddhist donors wearing huadian and [[Tang dynasty]] clothing, Mokao Cave.|type=Traditional Chinese facial makeup|material=Diverse}}{{Infobox Chinese
{{Short description|Traditional Chinese forehead decoration`}}{{Infobox clothing type|location=[[Spring and Autumn Period]] and [[Warring States Period]], [[China]]|image_file=[[File:Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave (forehead decoration).jpg|Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave (forehead decoration)]]|caption=Buddhist donors wearing huadian on the forehead and [[Tang dynasty]] clothing, Mokao Cave.|type=Traditional Chinese facial makeup|material=Diverse}}{{Infobox Chinese
| t = 花鈿
| t = 花鈿
| s = 花钿
| s = 花钿
Line 8: Line 8:
| lang1 = English
| lang1 = English
| lang1_content = Shouyang makeup/ Plum blossom makeup
| lang1_content = Shouyang makeup/ Plum blossom makeup
⚫
| pic = Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave 1.jpg
| piccap = Huadian applied on forehead, dimples, temples, and cheeks of a Buddhist donor in Tang dynasty hanfu, from Mokao Cave.
}}
}}


'''{{Transliteration|zh|Huadian}}''' ({{Lang-zh|t=花鈿|s=花钿}}), also known as '''{{Transliteration|zh|huazi}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=花子}}),<ref name=":5">{{Cite web|last=The Palace Museum|title=Pottery Figurines In Connection With Ladies' Lives|url=https://en.dpm.org.cn/www_oldweb/English/E/E5/part3.htm|url-status=live|access-date=2021-07-24|website=en.dpm.org.cn}}</ref> '''{{Transliteration|zh|mianhua}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=面花}}), '''{{Transliteration|zh|meizi}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=媚子}}),<ref name=":8">{{Cite web |title=战国花钿 - 《中国大百科全书》第三版网络版 |url=https://www.zgbk.com/ecph/words?SiteID=1&ID=339395&Type=bkdzb&SubID=605 |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=www.zgbk.com}}</ref> '''plum blossom makeup<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last=Hua|first=Mei|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/781020660|title=Chinese clothing|date=2011|isbn=0-521-18689-7|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=32–33|oclc=781020660}}</ref>''' or '''plum makeup<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Chen|first=Jack Wei|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711878|title=The poetics of sovereignty : on Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty|date=2010|isbn=978-1-68417-055-5|location=Cambridge (Massachusetts)|pages=234|oclc=956711878}}</ref>''' ({{Lang-zh|c=梅花粧|p=méihuāzhuāng}} or {{Lang-zh|c=落梅妆|p=luòméizhuāng}}) or '''Shouyang makeup<ref name=":0" />''' ({{Lang-zh|c=寿阳妆}}), is a form of traditional [[Han Chinese|Chinese]] women ornamental [[forehead]] makeup,<ref name=":0" /> which is located between the [[Eyebrow|eyebrows]]<ref name=":6">{{Cite web|last=刘瑜芬|title=How cosmetics were created in ancient China|url=https://www.chinadaily.com.cn/a/201804/21/WS5ada295aa3105cdcf6519a30.html|access-date=2021-07-24|website=www.chinadaily.com.cn}}</ref><ref name=":7">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=86-87|oclc=19814728}}</ref> and sometimes on the [[Cheek|cheeks]],<ref name=":5" /> and the [[Temple (anatomy)|temples]].<ref name=":9">{{Cite web |last=Wu |first=Qian |date=2022 |title=传统艺术中的花钿研究--《河北大学》2010年硕士论文 |url=https://cdmd.cnki.com.cn/article/cdmd-10075-2010208787.htm |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=cdmd.cnki.com.cn}}</ref> According to a folklore legend, the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} originated in the [[Northern and Southern dynasties|Southern dynasty period]];<ref name=":0" /> its creation is attributed to Princess Shouyang,<ref>{{Cite web |last=Shu |first=Hongxia |date=2021 |title=Rhyme in the Poems by Li Qingzhao and Zhu Shuzhen--《Journal of Yuncheng Advanced Training College》2000年05期 |url=https://en.cnki.com.cn/Article_en/CJFDTotal-YCGD200005018.htm |access-date=2021-07-24 |website=en.cnki.com.cn}}</ref><ref name=":7" /> a daughter of [[Emperor Wu of Song|Emperor Wu]] of [[Liu Song dynasty|Liu Song]] (420 – 479 AD).<ref name=":1" /> However, the origins of the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} can be traced back earlier than the folklore legends to the [[Qin dynasty|Qin]] and [[Han dynasty|Han dynasties]],<ref name=":9" /> and even in the pre-Qin period<ref name=":10">{{Cite web |last=Rui |first=Ying |date=2016 |title=浅析妇女花钿妆--《艺术品鉴》2016年12期 |url=https://www.cnki.com.cn/Article/CJFDTotal-YSPJ201612110.htm |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=www.cnki.com.cn}}</ref> with its customs arising as early as the [[Spring and Autumn period]] (c. 770 – 476 BC) and [[Warring States period]] (c. 475 – 221 BC) based on archaeological artifacts and studies.<ref name=":11">{{Cite web |last=Cao |first=Lifang |date=2011 |title=古代女子的花钿 – 国学网 |url=http://www.guoxue.com/?p=11516 |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=Guoxue |language=zh-CN}}</ref><ref name=":8" /> Its origins has no connection with the {{Transliteration|zh|diandan}} ({{Lang-zh|s=点丹|l=Dot Cinnabar}}), i.e. {{Transliteration|zh|[[urna|Baihao]]}} ({{Lang-zh|c=白毫}}), found on the middle forehead of [[Buddha in art|Buddha statue]].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Yu |first=Qian |last2=Lu |first2=Xiuwen |date=2006 |title=敦煌壁画中的妇女花钿妆——妆饰文化研究之五--《敦煌研究》2006年05期 |url=https://www.cnki.com.cn/Article/CJFD2006-DHYJ200605009.htm |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=www.cnki.com.cn}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} was also popular among [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Song dynasty|Song dynasties]]' women.<ref name=":0" /> The popularity of the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} declined in the [[Yuan dynasty]].<ref name=":9" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} forms an integral part of [[Hanfu|Chinese clothing]] culture.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Li |first=Xuewei |date=2007 |title=古之花钿 今更俏 |url=http://www.cqvip.com/qk/96606x/200702/24617457.html |website=cqvip.com}}</ref> In present days, {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} is often combined with the wearing of [[hanfu]].<ref name=":4">{{Cite web|title=Huadian - A Special Hanfu Makeup for Female|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/7034.html|access-date=2021-07-24|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US}}</ref>
'''{{Transliteration|zh|Huadian}}''' ({{Lang-zh|t=花鈿|s=花钿}}), also known as '''{{Transliteration|zh|huazi}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=花子}}),<ref name=":5">{{Cite web|last=The Palace Museum|title=Pottery Figurines In Connection With Ladies' Lives|url=https://en.dpm.org.cn/www_oldweb/English/E/E5/part3.htm|url-status=live|access-date=2021-07-24|website=en.dpm.org.cn}}</ref> '''{{Transliteration|zh|mianhua}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=面花}}), '''{{Transliteration|zh|meizi}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c=媚子}}),<ref name=":8">{{Cite web |title=战国花钿 - 《中国大百科全书》第三版网络版 |url=https://www.zgbk.com/ecph/words?SiteID=1&ID=339395&Type=bkdzb&SubID=605 |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=www.zgbk.com}}</ref> '''plum blossom makeup<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|last=Hua|first=Mei|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/781020660|title=Chinese clothing|date=2011|isbn=0-521-18689-7|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=32–33|oclc=781020660}}</ref>''' or '''plum makeup<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Chen|first=Jack Wei|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711878|title=The poetics of sovereignty : on Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty|date=2010|isbn=978-1-68417-055-5|location=Cambridge (Massachusetts)|pages=234|oclc=956711878}}</ref>''' ({{Lang-zh|c=梅花粧|p=méihuāzhuāng}} or {{Lang-zh|c=落梅妆|p=luòméizhuāng}}) or '''Shouyang makeup<ref name=":0" />''' ({{Lang-zh|c=寿阳妆}}), is a form of traditional [[Han Chinese|Chinese]] women ornamental [[forehead]] makeup,<ref name=":0" /> which is located between the [[Eyebrow|eyebrows]]<ref name=":6">{{Cite web|last=刘瑜芬|title=How cosmetics were created in ancient China|url=https://www.chinadaily.com.cn/a/201804/21/WS5ada295aa3105cdcf6519a30.html|access-date=2021-07-24|website=www.chinadaily.com.cn}}</ref><ref name=":7">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=86-87|oclc=19814728}}</ref> and sometimes on the [[Cheek|cheeks]],<ref name=":5" /> and the [[Temple (anatomy)|temples]].<ref name=":9">{{Cite web |last=Wu |first=Qian |date=2022 |title=传统艺术中的花钿研究--《河北大学》2010年硕士论文 |url=https://cdmd.cnki.com.cn/article/cdmd-10075-2010208787.htm |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=cdmd.cnki.com.cn}}</ref> According to a folklore legend, the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} originated in the [[Northern and Southern dynasties|Southern dynasty period]];<ref name=":0" /> its creation is attributed to Princess Shouyang,<ref>{{Cite web |last=Shu |first=Hongxia |date=2021 |title=Rhyme in the Poems by Li Qingzhao and Zhu Shuzhen--《Journal of Yuncheng Advanced Training College》2000年05期 |url=https://en.cnki.com.cn/Article_en/CJFDTotal-YCGD200005018.htm |access-date=2021-07-24 |website=en.cnki.com.cn}}</ref><ref name=":7" /> a daughter of [[Emperor Wu of Song|Emperor Wu]] of [[Liu Song dynasty|Liu Song]] (420 – 479 AD).<ref name=":1" /> However, the origins of the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} can be traced back earlier than the folklore legends to the [[Qin dynasty|Qin]] and [[Han dynasty|Han dynasties]],<ref name=":9" /> and even in the pre-Qin period<ref name=":10">{{Cite web |last=Rui |first=Ying |date=2016 |title=浅析妇女花钿妆--《艺术品鉴》2016年12期 |url=https://www.cnki.com.cn/Article/CJFDTotal-YSPJ201612110.htm |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=www.cnki.com.cn}}</ref> with its customs arising as early as the [[Spring and Autumn period]] (c. 770 – 476 BC) and [[Warring States period]] (c. 475 – 221 BC) based on archaeological artifacts and studies.<ref name=":11">{{Cite web |last=Cao |first=Lifang |date=2011 |title=古代女子的花钿 – 国学网 |url=http://www.guoxue.com/?p=11516 |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=Guoxue |language=zh-CN}}</ref><ref name=":8" /> Its origins has no connection with the {{Transliteration|zh|diandan}} ({{Lang-zh|s=点丹|l=Dot Cinnabar}}), i.e. {{Transliteration|zh|[[urna|Baihao]]}} ({{Lang-zh|c=白毫}}), found on the middle forehead of [[Buddha in art|Buddha statue]].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Yu |first=Qian |last2=Lu |first2=Xiuwen |date=2006 |title=敦煌壁画中的妇女花钿妆——妆饰文化研究之五--《敦煌研究》2006年05期 |url=https://www.cnki.com.cn/Article/CJFD2006-DHYJ200605009.htm |access-date=2022-09-22 |website=www.cnki.com.cn}}</ref> The {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} was also popular among [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Song dynasty|Song dynasties]]' women.<ref name=":0" /> The popularity of the {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} declined in the [[Yuan dynasty]].<ref name=":9" /> The {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} forms an integral part of [[Hanfu|Chinese clothing]] culture.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Li |first=Xuewei |date=2007 |title=古之花钿 今更俏 |url=http://www.cqvip.com/qk/96606x/200702/24617457.html |website=cqvip.com}}</ref> In present days, {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} is often combined with the wearing of [[hanfu]], the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese.<ref name=":4">{{Cite web|title=Huadian - A Special Hanfu Makeup for Female|url=https://www.newhanfu.com/7034.html|access-date=2021-07-24|website=www.newhanfu.com|language=en-US}}</ref>


== History ==
== History ==
Line 27: Line 29:
=== Song dynasty ===
=== Song dynasty ===
In the [[Song dynasty]], {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} embellished with pearls became popular.<ref name=":4" />
In the [[Song dynasty]], {{Transliteration|zh|huadian}} embellished with pearls became popular.<ref name=":4" />

{{Clear}}


== Designs and colours ==
== Designs and colours ==
Line 33: Line 37:
== Gallery ==
== Gallery ==
<gallery mode="packed">
<gallery mode="packed">
File:Anonymous-Astana Graves Dancer chop.jpg|A Tang dynasty woman
File:Anonymous-Astana Graves Dancer chop.jpg|A Tang dynasty woman
File:A T'ang Dynasty Woman 1.jpg|A Tang dynasty woman
File:A T'ang Dynasty Woman 1.jpg|A Tang dynasty woman
⚫
File:Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave 1.jpg|Buddhist donors in Tang costume, from Mokao Cave.
File:Five Dynasties makeup.jpg|Woman wearing makeup, [[Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period|Five dynasties]] period.
File:Five Dynasties makeup.jpg|Woman wearing makeup, [[Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period|Five dynasties]] period.
File:《浣月圖》局部.jpg|Woman applying huadian
File:《浣月圖》局部.jpg|Woman applying huadian

Revision as of 14:18, 22 September 2022

Huadian
Buddhist donors in T'ang costume, Mo-kao Cave (forehead decoration)
Buddhist donors wearing huadian on the forehead and Tang dynasty clothing, Mokao Cave.
TypeTraditional Chinese facial makeup
MaterialDiverse
Place of originSpring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period, China
Huadian
Huadian applied on forehead, dimples, temples, and cheeks of a Buddhist donor in Tang dynasty hanfu, from Mokao Cave.
Chinese name
Traditional Chinese花鈿
Simplified Chinese花钿
Transcriptions
Standard Mandarin
Hanyu PinyinHuādiàn
Huazi
Chinese花子
Transcriptions
Standard Mandarin
Hanyu PinyinHuāzǐ
English name
EnglishShouyang makeup/ Plum blossom makeup

Huadian (simplified Chinese: 花钿; traditional Chinese: 花鈿), also known as huazi (Chinese: 花子),[1] mianhua (Chinese: 面花), meizi (Chinese: 媚子),[2] plum blossom makeup[3] or plum makeup[4] (Chinese: 梅花粧; pinyin: méihuāzhuāng or Chinese: 落梅妆; pinyin: luòméizhuāng) or Shouyang makeup[3] (Chinese: 寿阳妆), is a form of traditional Chinese women ornamental forehead makeup,[3] which is located between the eyebrows[5][6] and sometimes on the cheeks,[1] and the temples.[7] According to a folklore legend, the huadian originated in the Southern dynasty period;[3] its creation is attributed to Princess Shouyang,[8][6] a daughter of Emperor Wu of Liu Song (420 – 479 AD).[4] However, the origins of the huadian can be traced back earlier than the folklore legends to the Qin and Han dynasties,[7] and even in the pre-Qin period[9] with its customs arising as early as the Spring and Autumn period (c. 770 – 476 BC) and Warring States period (c. 475 – 221 BC) based on archaeological artifacts and studies.[10][2] Its origins has no connection with the diandan (Chinese: 点丹; lit. 'Dot Cinnabar'), i.e. Baihao (Chinese: 白毫), found on the middle forehead of Buddha statue.[11] The huadian was also popular among Tang and Song dynasties' women.[3] The popularity of the huadian declined in the Yuan dynasty.[7] The huadian forms an integral part of Chinese clothing culture.[12] In present days, huadian is often combined with the wearing of hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese.[13]

History

The customs of applying early prototypes of the huadian can be traced back to the Pre-Qin period;[9] for examples, female figurines unearthed from the tomb of Chu dating to the Warring States period in Changsha, Hunan province, have decorative shapes or patterns painted on their face, which shows that the prototypes of the huadian already existed much earlier than the folk legends.[10][2]

Women with huadian painted on forehead, from the painting Admonitions Scroll, attributed to Gu Kaizhi.

Northern and Southern dynasties

According to a legend, the huadian originated in the Southern dynasty period when a plum blossom was blown on the forehead of Princess Shouyang (a daughter of Song Wudi[4]) when the latter was taking a walk in the palace in early spring.[3] The plum blossom for some reasons could not be removed or washed off; but since it looked beautiful on the princess, it became a fashion trend.[3]

Another legend says that Princess Shouyang was taking a nap when a plum blossom fell on her forehead (and cheeks[14]) leaving imprints;[15][4] these imprints stays for three days.[14] The effect of the flower imprint was so striking that it formed a new vogue and was copied by other ladies.[15][4] This fashion trend soon became popular across the country.[14]

Tang dynasty

Song Dynasty Empress of Qinzong wearing pearl huadian.

In the Tang dynasty, the huadian could be painted or made of tiny pieces of metal,[6] such as gold or silver foil.[5] Other materials such as paper, fish scales or dragonfly wings were also used to make the huadian.[5] During this period, there were more than 10 variations of plum blossoms which were used as facial adornment.[14] Bird, snake and lead-shaped decorations were also popular.[14]

Song dynasty

In the Song dynasty, huadian embellished with pearls became popular.[13]

Designs and colours

The huadian can come in different shapes and patterns,[1] including plum blossoms, butterfly, phoenixes and other animals.[13][14] It is typically red in colour but can also be found in different colours, such as green.[13] Different materials such as gold leaf, silver leaf, paper, fish scales, feathers, pearls, jewels, dragonfly wings can be used.[13][1]

  • A Tang dynasty woman
    A Tang dynasty woman
  • A Tang dynasty woman
    A Tang dynasty woman
  • Woman wearing makeup, Five dynasties period.
    Woman wearing makeup, Five dynasties period.
  • Woman applying huadian
    Woman applying huadian

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d The Palace Museum. "Pottery Figurines In Connection With Ladies' Lives". en.dpm.org.cn. Retrieved 2021-07-24.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  2. ^ a b c "战国花钿 - 《中国大百科全书》第三版网络版". www.zgbk.com. Retrieved 2022-09-22.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g Hua, Mei (2011). Chinese clothing (Updated ed.). Cambridge, United Kingdom. pp. 32–33. ISBN 0-521-18689-7. OCLC 781020660.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  4. ^ a b c d e Chen, Jack Wei (2010). The poetics of sovereignty : on Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty. Cambridge (Massachusetts). p. 234. ISBN 978-1-68417-055-5. OCLC 956711878.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  5. ^ a b c 刘瑜芬. "How cosmetics were created in ancient China". www.chinadaily.com.cn. Retrieved 2021-07-24.
  6. ^ a b c 5000 years of Chinese costumes. Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu. San Francisco, CA: China Books & Periodicals. 1987. pp. 86–87. ISBN 0-8351-1822-3. OCLC 19814728.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  7. ^ a b c Wu, Qian (2022). "传统艺术中的花钿研究--《河北大学》2010年硕士论文". cdmd.cnki.com.cn. Retrieved 2022-09-22.
  8. ^ Shu, Hongxia (2021). "Rhyme in the Poems by Li Qingzhao and Zhu Shuzhen--《Journal of Yuncheng Advanced Training College》2000年05期". en.cnki.com.cn. Retrieved 2021-07-24.
  9. ^ a b Rui, Ying (2016). "浅析妇女花钿妆--《艺术品鉴》2016年12期". www.cnki.com.cn. Retrieved 2022-09-22.
  10. ^ a b Cao, Lifang (2011). "古代女子的花钿 – 国学网". Guoxue (in Chinese (China)). Retrieved 2022-09-22.
  11. ^ Yu, Qian; Lu, Xiuwen (2006). "敦煌壁画中的妇女花钿妆——妆饰文化研究之五--《敦煌研究》2006年05期". www.cnki.com.cn. Retrieved 2022-09-22.
  12. ^ Li, Xuewei (2007). "古之花钿 今更俏". cqvip.com.
  13. ^ a b c d e "Huadian - A Special Hanfu Makeup for Female". www.newhanfu.com. Retrieved 2021-07-24.
  14. ^ a b c d e f Zhang, Lei (2012). "The pursuit of beauty|Life|chinadaily.com.cn". europe.chinadaily.com.cn. Retrieved 2021-07-24.
  15. ^ a b The Works of Li Qingzhao. Ronald Egan, Anna Shields. Berlin. 2019. p. 170. ISBN 978-1-5015-0451-8. OCLC 1091683826.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link) CS1 maint: others (link)
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